Loose Marquise Cut Diamonds

The “bow-tie” effect appears as a dark shadow across the center of marquise diamonds due to light leakage in poorly proportioned stones. This visual phenomenon can be minimized through proper cutting technique with ideal depth percentages (approximately 58-62%) and precise facet alignment. When purchasing a marquise diamond, examine it under different lighting conditions to assess the extent of any bow-tie. High-quality, well-cut marquise diamonds will show minimal darkening, maintaining consistent brilliance across the entire natural stone.

The marquise cut appears larger because its elongated shape maximizes face-up surface area—up to 20% more than round diamonds of identical carat weight. This efficient design spreads the diamond’s weight across its length rather than hiding it in depth. For value-conscious collectors, this creates an opportunity to acquire a visually impressive conflict-free diamond at a lower cost per carat. The marquise’s extended silhouette also creates a slenderizing effect when worn, making it particularly flattering on the hand.

The marquise cut originated in 18th century France, commissioned by King Louis XV to resemble the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. This aristocratic heritage explains the shape’s elegant, elongated silhouette reminiscent of a nobleman’s sailing vessel. Originally crafted for royalty, these distinctive diamonds carried significant prestige throughout European courts. Today, authentic marquise cuts remain among the more rare fancy shapes, representing less than 5% of all diamonds purchased globally, adding to their unique appeal and genuine character.

In a high-quality marquise diamond, seek a length-to-width ratio between 1.75-2.25 for classic elegant proportions, though personal preference may vary. The stone should display symmetric pointed ends with properly aligned facets. Depth percentage should fall between 58-62% to prevent light leakage or excessive weight hidden in depth. The width of the stone should be sufficient to prevent fragility at the points. When evaluating these precious gems, look for even faceting that eliminates the bow-tie effect, ensuring maximum brilliance worth the purchasing price.