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Choosing a natural diamond or a fine colored gemstone is always a blend of emotion, taste, and knowledge. Every stone is unique, and several characteristics work together to determine its beauty: the color, the clarity, the cut, the shape, and of course the overall personality of the gem. None of these elements stands above the others in universal importance. The right stone is the one where everything comes together harmoniously.
Among these factors, the cut plays a particularly visible role because it shapes how the stone interacts with light, how it sits in a piece of jewelry, and how its character is expressed. A well-cut stone looks lively and refined, while a weak cut can make even a high-color gem appear dull or flat. But the cut doesn’t replace color or clarity—these qualities work together. This guide focuses specifically on the modern market’s most popular shapes and faceting styles, explaining what makes each one appealing and where each one truly shines.
If you’d like to explore more in depth, you can visit our Education Center, or browse natural diamonds and fine gemstones on our website:
- Education Center: https://reuvenveksler.com/education-center/
- Diamonds: https://reuvenveksler.com/diamonds/
- Gemstones: https://reuvenveksler.com/gemstones/
Below is an expanded, polished overview of the ten cuts most sought after today. Each description is based entirely on verified information from your file, rewritten in a natural and engaging tone.
1. Round Brilliant Cut
The round brilliant remains the most recognized shape in the world of diamonds. Its modern form was mathematically refined in the early 20th century with one goal: to create a cut that returns as much light as possible. A beautifully cut round diamond looks full of energy, with bright flashes and fine fire.
People choose round stones because they are reliable visually, versatile in design, and timeless. They work with almost any setting and suit any style—from classic solitaires to more contemporary jewelry.
Their downside is mostly practical: the cutting process removes more material, which means round stones usually cost more per carat than other shapes. They also tend to be the least distinctive, simply because they are so widely chosen.
A round stone is perfect for someone who wants an elegant, universal look with excellent sparkle.
2. Princess Cut
The princess cut became popular in the late 20th century and quickly established itself as the modern alternative to the round. Its defining features are sharp corners and a square outline combined with a brilliant-style faceting pattern that creates strong sparkle.
It offers a clean, contemporary feel, and because it uses the rough efficiently, it often costs less per carat than a round of similar quality. Many people appreciate the balance between a geometric outline and energetic brilliance.
The corners need proper protection in a ring, as they can chip. Aside from that, the princess cut is an excellent choice for someone who prefers symmetry and modern lines without giving up brightness.
3. Cushion Cut
The cushion cut traces its heritage back several centuries. Its soft, rounded outline gives it a romantic, antique character even in modern pieces. Cushions are especially popular in colored gemstones and fancy-color diamonds because the cut tends to display color richly and evenly.
Some cushions have large facets that create a classic, more transparent look; others have intricate facet arrangements that produce a “crushed ice” effect. This variety allows the buyer to choose between vintage charm or a livelier, shimmering texture.
The only thing to keep in mind is that the openness of the facets may make inclusions slightly easier to notice, depending on the specific style. Still, the cushion remains one of the most versatile and expressive cuts.
4. Oval Cut
The oval cut took shape in the mid-20th century and has grown rapidly in popularity. It offers the brilliance of a round diamond but with an elongated, elegant form. Because the shape stretches outward, ovals tend to appear larger than round stones of equal weight, which many clients appreciate.
Ovals flatter the hand beautifully and bring a sense of movement and refinement. They do, however, sometimes show what is known as a “bow-tie,” a soft shadow across the center, which varies from stone to stone.
For someone who wants a lively, graceful shape that feels both classic and slightly distinctive, the oval is a wonderful choice.
5. Emerald Cut
The emerald cut is one of the most dignified and architectural shapes in the world of gemstones. Rather than brilliant faceting, which creates scattered sparkle, emerald cuts use long, parallel step facets. This creates a very different optical effect—clean, mirror-like flashes that emphasize the purity of the material.
Because the facets are broad and open, emerald cuts show clarity more openly than many brilliant shapes. When the stone is high quality, this becomes part of its beauty; the gem looks serene, refined, and transparent.
Its rectangular outline and clipped corners have a timeless appeal. The emerald cut suits those who prefer understated elegance and a more deliberate, structured kind of beauty.
6. Marquise Cut
The marquise, with its pointed ends and curved sides, is instantly recognizable. This cut has a sense of drama and elongation that few others can match. It often looks larger than its carat weight suggests, making it an impressive choice even at modest sizes.
Its shape can visually lengthen the finger, and its distinctive silhouette appeals to people who want something less conventional. The pointed tips require protective prongs, and some stones display a bow-tie, but a well-chosen marquise is striking and full of personality.
It is best suited for someone who welcomes a bold, slightly vintage look.
7. Pear Cut
The pear cut is one of the most elegant and expressive shapes in fine jewelry. With one rounded end and one pointed end, it blends two aesthetics: the brilliance of a round and the graceful taper of an elongated shape.
Many clients choose pears because they feel both classic and individual. They work beautifully in rings but are also exceptional as pendants and earrings, where the teardrop shape shines.
As with marquise and oval stones, pears can display a bow-tie, and the tip must be properly protected. When the cut is well executed, the pear has a flowing, romantic charm.
8. Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut carries strong Art Deco character. Its square form, step facets, and deeply layered appearance create a striking geometric pattern inside the stone. A well-cut Asscher reveals an almost kaleidoscopic symmetry.
Because the cut is open and structured, clarity becomes more noticeable, and stones with high transparency look particularly beautiful in this shape. Asschers tend to appear slightly smaller face-up compared to some other shapes of the same weight because of their depth, but the visual precision and elegance more than compensate.
For those who love clean lines, vintage influences, and refined craftsmanship, the Asscher cut is an outstanding choice.
If you want to learn more about this cut, here is our dedicated article:
https://reuvenveksler.com/education/unveiling-the-beauty-of-asscher-cut-diamonds/
9. Radiant Cut
The radiant cut was created to combine the brilliance of a round with the crisp outline of a rectangular or square shape. Its numerous facets create strong sparkle, and the trimmed corners make it more durable than shapes with sharp tips.
Radiant cuts are especially admired in natural fancy-color diamonds and colored gemstones because the faceting tends to intensify color. They also hide inclusions better than many step-cut shapes.
For someone who wants modern brilliance with a rectangular outline, the radiant is one of the strongest choices available.
For extremely rare elongated rectangular cuts with exceptional brilliance, explore the Ashoka cut here:
https://reuvenveksler.com/education/the-ashoka-cut-a-masterpiece-in-gems-and-diamonds/
10. Heart Cut
The heart cut is instantly symbolic and carries emotional significance like no other shape. Its outline is famously difficult to execute well; symmetry between the two halves, the definition of the cleft, and the proportion of the lobes all matter tremendously.
When cut beautifully, the heart shape is expressive and full of life. It is often chosen for meaningful gifts, anniversary jewelry, or standout pieces in a personal collection.
Because the outline can be hard to appreciate in very small sizes, heart-shaped stones are most convincing when they have enough carat weight to clearly display the shape.
A Quick Comparison of the 10 Most Popular Cuts
Below is a clear summary that brings the characteristics together.
| Cut | Visual Impression | Sparkle Style | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Round Brilliant | Classic, balanced | Strong brilliance and fire | Most universal and versatile |
| Princess | Modern, geometric | Bright, lively | Corners need protection |
| Cushion | Soft, vintage or modern | Varies by facet style | Excellent for colored stones |
| Oval | Elegant, elongated | Strong brilliance | May show a bow-tie |
| Emerald | Architectural, refined | Broad mirrored flashes | Shows clarity openly |
| Marquise | Dramatic, elongated | Bright | Appears large for its weight |
| Pear | Graceful and distinctive | Strong brilliance | Ideal for pendants and rings |
| Asscher | Art Deco precision | Step-cut flashes | Smaller face-up size |
| Radiant | Modern and vivid | Intense sparkle | Great for colored diamonds |
| Heart | Romantic, symbolic | Brilliant | Shape best in larger sizes |
Choosing the Right Cut for Your Collection
There is no “best” shape—only the shape that best reflects the beauty you want to express. Each cut has its strengths. Some maximize brightness, others emphasize clarity, some flatter the hand, and others highlight color.
For diamonds, people often choose rounds, ovals, cushions, and radiants for their lively sparkle. For colored gemstones, cushions, emerald cuts, and radiants often display hue and saturation most attractively. For collectors, shapes like the Asscher or heart cut offer strong personality and rarity.
If you’d like guidance while choosing a stone—or if you’re searching for something exceptional—we will be glad to assist. Our collections are curated with care, and we often source special pieces privately for our clients.
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